Saturday, November 18, 2017

Love Is A Fire That Burns Without Seeing Itself


He was born 493 years ago to wealthy parents and had a life with frequent access to exclusive literature of the time including classical Greek, Roman and Latin works. He could read, speak and write in Latin, Italian, Spanish and Portuguese. His life was full of loves lost, raised by a single mother, being imprisoned, sailing all over the world, losing an eye, becoming a recluse and eventually dying a lonely death at the age of 56 in his beloved Portugal. Only after his death did the world come to love his poems and he is celebrated and loved beyond measure in Portugal and by Portuguese around the world. His name was Luís de Camões and his story continues here with a bit of my modern day take on it.

“You Sir, in the back row, I don't believe you are on the list of students for this class!” Luís replied, “No, I am indeed not registered with this fine institution, however, my uncle Bento is the Chancellor and I do so love to crash your course in Humanities!” And he remained seated in his favorite spot at the University of Coimbra.

Luís was a hopeless, crazy romantic, an idealist and absolutely loved writing poetry. When he was about 24 he fell in lust love with the Queen of Portugal's lady in waiting Catherine and thinking he could get away with having another woman at the same time, he was also hooking up with King John III's daughter, the Princess Maria! One day, the King said to Luís, “Be gone with you when the sun sets on Lisbon this day!” Or something like that!

By my calculations, it took him about a day to walk to a friend's house from Lisbon where he flopped on their straw couch for six months. His friends got tired of him always moping around, eating their salted cod, potatoes and drinking all the wine and coffee. So, they sat him down for an intervention. “Hey, Lou, you really need to get your life together man!” So he joined Portugal's overseas military and went to Ceuta which is currently a Spanish autonomous city on the north coast of Africa.


During a battle with the Moors he lost his right eye. He must have been one tough guy because there were no drugs except herbs and opium back then! Being away from Lisbon was a time of mega-stress so when he returned he decided to become a hippie bohemian and just go with the flow. He was tired of kale and wheatgrass juice and thought it would be fun to check out a nearby religious festival. In what was probably a moment of mouthing off to the wrong guy, he injured Gonçalo a member of the royal stables. The guards slapped cuffs on him and tossed him in the slammer until they could decide what to do with him.

When he was a young boy his papa left to sow his oats in Goa, India never to be seen from again. Luís was probably a Momma's boy because when she found out he was in the dungeon, she went to see the Royals and Gonçalo's family to ask for his release. I can only imagine how that conversation went. Momma wins out and Luís is released but has to pay some money and is ordered to serve 3 years with the Portugal military in the Orient. He spent his time in Goa fighting along the trade routes between Egypt and India. He wrote letters home for the sailors on the ship maybe sending them by seagull?


After his time spent in service, he was given a job managing the personal properties of missing and deceased soldiers. Like any government worker, he found time to work on his epic poem “Os Lusíadas” in a secret grotto where he thought no one knew where he was. The boss found out he misappropriated thieved, pilfered, helped himself to the things belonging to the dead guys and was told to show up to court in Goa. 


 He went back to the grotto to pick up his Chinese lover Dianmene and they hopped on the boat to India. Somewhere along the Cambodian coast in the Mekong Delta the driver crashed the boat. Luís lost his love but managed to swim to shore holding his unfinished manuscript in the air above his head.


From word of mouth passed down hundreds of years, it appears he skipped out on meeting the judge in Goa for coffee. Luís wandered the oceans popping up in various countries where, in Mozambique, an old friend stumbled upon him, maybe literally, to see he was without food or coin and kindly paid for his trip back to Portugal.


Lisbon was in the midst of dealing with the Plague when he got back. He probably avoided dying because of his dislike of being around people when he was writing. Two years later he finished “Os Lusíadas” manuscript and was given permission to publish it where he received some royal money for his military service and some people in power finally saw something in his writing that was worth recognition. 


"Os Lusíadas" is regarded as Portugal's national epic where Luís portrays the voyage of Vasco da Gama in a fantastical interpretation. It is a very long story with twists and turns full of deception, intrigue, and of course like any good story....sex.


Bacchus asks Neptune to whip up a storm to sink Vasco's ships but at the last minute Venus sends beautiful naked women to sing their siren song to calm down the wind, thus saving the ships! Women to the rescue!

Once they reach India, jealous big mouth Bacchus spreads rumors and Vasco has to convince the priests that they are traders and not pirates. The priests cut a deal to let them go if they leave all of the goods from the ships with them....who's the pirates now?


Venus shows up again and guides Vasco's ships to “Love Island” so the crews can “rest”.  Her son Cupid asks all the Sea Nymphs to hook up with the sailors but to make it look like it was the sailors idea, the nymphs made a pretense of running away from the sailors and then the party really got started!

After stuffing himself on grapes, wine, fish and whatever else was on the buffet menu Vasco's lover Tethys, the daughter of Gaia takes him for a “trip” around the island showing him visions of how the universe operates....Wow, what was in that wine?

Luís de Camões is one of the great European poets of love and his words are so treasured by the Portuguese that because his birth date is not known, the date of his death June 10th is celebrated every year as Portugal Day, a National Holiday. 





His works have been immortalized around the world in books, bronze medallions, songs, stamps, paintings, statues and even in comic book style.


True recognition would come only after his death, Today, his remains are buried in the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon near his idol Vasco da Gama. Again, my imagination goes to the guys standing by the grave trying to decide what to write....”Hey Dude, what about this?”......"Here Lay Luís de Camões, Prince of the poets of his time. He lived poorly and miserably and thus died." Glass of wine in hand they toast Luís with a hearty “Saúde”

The work of Camões is still widely studied throughout the world and the work "Os Lusíadas" is considered one of the most important and valuable poetic documents of universal literature. More than immortalizing the Portuguese homeland, Camões continues to give a new glow to the Portuguese language and soul.

Moral Of The Story......
No matter what is happening in your life, do the best you can and you might just find your face on a coin in 500 years!

Here is his famous poem of love.

Love is a Fire that burns without seeing itself
Love is a fire that burns without seeing itself;
It is a wound that hurts, and it does not sit;
It is discontented contentment;
It is pain that fights without hurting.

It is a not wanting more than good to want;
It's a lonely walk among us;
It is never content and contented;
It is a care that wins in getting lost;

It is wanting to be bound by will;
It is to serve the conqueror, the conqueror;
It's having someone who kills us, loyalty.

But how can cause your favor
In human hearts friendship,
If so contrary to itself is the same love?


Luís Vaz de Camões, in "Sonetos"

Sunday, November 12, 2017

One Year In Coimbra!


Looking back on this last year in our new hometown of Coimbra, Portugal we feel comfortable, at ease and happier than we have been in a very long time. Of course, there were some bumps to overcome but in each case our lack of Portuguese didn't make things impossible. The few times we have struggled to get our message across, someone always found another person that spoke English and all was sorted out.

This is one of our neighbors

We found our apartment on a Portuguese website for rental listings and our landlady speaks English. She also gave us the name of a friend that works at the bank where we opened an account and where he also helped us sign up for our medical insurance.

My Doctor - Prof. Doutor Carlos Robalo Cordeiro

I have been to the doctor for a pulmonary issue that I need to deal with periodically. He is not only a specialist but also the 
Regent of the department, President of the Portuguese Society of Pulmonology, President of the Center of Pulmonology Congress, Secretary General Elect of the European Respiratory Society.  He speaks English and the appointment was made by me sending a message via their website and it was incredibly easy and so fast that I was able to see him 4 days later.  He is so kind and treats me like I am the only person in the world during my appointments. 

Our Eye Doctor - Hermínio Simões Carvalho

We will be seeing an optometrist in few weeks for an exam, new lenses and frames and he also speaks English. Vince and I have both been to the dentist for root canals and the people we saw speak English.
This is our favorite woman in the world!  Her name is Maria Elena and she has been selling at the marked for 50 years!  Look at that sweet face.  She always give us kisses and giant hugs and she makes sure we have what is the best and freshest organic veggies and eggs!

The only time we come into contact with people that don't speak English is at the Farmer's Market, some small local shops, our hairdresser, most taxis, and some people working at the mall and grocery stores but nothing that has created any problems for them or us. Google translate is helpful if we need it. We continue to study and are learning slowly but surely.

We have been adopted by a Portuguese family with two girls, 7 and 4 years old, and that is where I feel silly not even being able to speak or understand a 4 year old when she comes to whisper something special in my ear! It is so cute and Mom and Dad speak English and are very patient with us and help us with our Portuguese. It is obvious we all adore each other. We are in contact often and they worry and look out for us.
Vitor and Teresa when they took us to Castle Montemor-o-Velho which is 929 years old. 

After leaving the church I accidentally locked the door when I shut it!  


                                      We walked the walls and I swear I could hear voices.


On the left is daughter #1 Teresa (Little "T") and on the right is Ines.  They are so adorable and are always excited when they get to see us.

Not having a car has been easy. We walk 5 minutes to the taxi stand to go to the mall and our grocery store once a week. Other than that, we walk 20 minutes into town to have coffee, go to our bank, the pharmacy, my shoe repair man, small shops and people watch. It is about 2 miles round trip so we are keeping in shape.
Our bank where we also signed up for our health insurance
                                                                   Our Pharmacy
Our coffee shop is in a 600 year old annex of a 1,100 year old church and is a spot where tourists gravitate to. We have met people from Ireland, England, Australia and some from the US, but not many foreigners live here.

The inside of the coffee shop.  Vince is sitting at the window in the lower right.

But our good friends Sacha, Jmayel and Story moved here the same time we did, also from Thailand, and they live close enough for us to meet and give Story cuddles.  


A woman we met last year at a local shop invited us to her wedding next May and when we see her she always stops to give us kisses and ask how we are. Likewise, the man at the bank, the woman at the optometrist office, the men working at our favorite coffee shop will go out of their way to greet us and ask how we are. They even worried about us when we were on a trip for a couple weeks and wondered if we were ok. The genuine kindness of Portuguese people is beyond anything we have ever experienced as adults in the US. I think is is probably similar to when we were children in the 50's. People had manners, greeted everyone they saw with a “Good Morning, Good Afternoon, Good Evening, How are you today?” Including a smile and a hug and kiss. When we pass someone on the sidewalk we say “Good Morning” and they respond back in kind.

This might sound old fashioned.... Men are gentlemen and women are ladies here. I see many women of all ages wearing skirts. slacks and dresses with boots or medium size heels, scarves, and nicely done hair and minimal makeup. Many men wear suit jackets or nice button down shirts and slacks and this includes the younger men and women going to the university.

Rarely do we see negative attitudes from people working with the public. Customer service here is just part of the culture and people will help out anyway they can. It is a quiet society and when someone raises their voice, all the locals turn to look to see if something is wrong. People speak quietly while talking and it is very nice to have a conversation where people are not yelling to be heard.

After attending a concert at the university, Christmas music at a church or being out for New Years Eve fireworks we walk home very late at night without a care in the world. Families of all ages are out and lovers are holding hands or kissing under a tree. We have never felt anxious or worried about our safety.



This is the Pedro and Ines Bridge we use to cross the river and walk to town.

 Several months ago we connected with a lovely woman named Eve from the US that recently moved here. We are picky when we meet someone and don't often invite strangers to our house but there was just something about her that we felt it was ok to let her into our life. We meet for coffee, peruse antique shops and give each other support and encouragement and laugh at mutually understood stories of figuring out how to use the washing machine or hanging laundry outside to dry or me being afraid to speak to the women at the fresh bread counter because of my lack of language...I am over it now because the bread is fresh, warm, delicious and won me over.

We don't watch TV and don't have small children asking for the toys they see, so Christmas to us appears to be low key compared to the US. In the past couple of years the malls have had Black Friday Sales, but you won't see anyone pushing, shoving or being injured while shopping. Children still sit on Santa's lap and presents are given with heartfelt love and joy. There are not blocks and blocks of houses decorated with outdoor lights. The main downtown and central square puts up decorations and the shops and malls decorate their windows. 
Christmas Squirrel's are a thing in Coimbra

We went to a concert at the 1,100 year old stone church on the right. We stayed bundled up and froze our butts off and tried to imagine what it was like one thousand years ago!





Old and New
Recycled plastic bottles made into a tree in front of Igreja de Sao Tiago church which is over 1,000 years old.  Just after I took the picture, the dog lifted his leg on the tree! 

A band playing Feliz Navidad in the main square.

Santa at Forum Mall

Our friend Teresa works as a manager of a department in a major grocery store and she said that the beginning of November starts the very difficult holiday season. People will get grouchy closer to Christmas and stocking the store is overwhelming and tiring. They won't have a break until January 6th, then things can get back to normal. So, Portugal is the same, yet different too. Like people everywhere some struggle to make ends meet and this time of year is stressful for many, but people try to remember that the feeling of the Christmas season is one of family, friends and being grateful for what you have in your life.


The weather is gorgeous! We sit outside at cafe's year round and only had to go indoors once or twice during the winter because it was raining too much. The entire country needs rain desperately and the fires of summer have only given us smoke for a few days where we live and we are lucky we can stay inside when we need to. The clear blue, blue skies are dramatic when they have puffy white clouds. We have no air pollution to speak of. 

 We see the trees and flowers blooming in the spring and now the Autumn leaves are full of color. Winter camellias, persimmons, oranges, nuts, pumpkins and chestnuts are fresh and beautiful. The Atlantic ocean is only 30 minutes by car away and we get seagulls that come away from the sea to live here and float on the river in the winter.  




Seagulls on the river


Here is to many more years of love and happiness in our new home!